Skin-smoothing cosmetic based on plant extracts

ABSTRACT

The invention relates to a cosmetic whose active constituents are specified plant extracts and which has a very good skin-smoothing activity. According to the invention, the skin-smoothing of porous or uneven skin having macroscopically visible elevations and depressions during cosmetic processes occurs without irritating side effects. The cosmetic contains plant extracts from  Bambusa vulgaris, Nymphaea alba, Poterium officinale, Zingiber officinalis, Cinnamomum cassia, Nasturtium officinale  R.Br.,  Nelumbo nucifera  Gaertn. and contains a powder selected from the group consisting of talcum powder, bamboo powder, kaolin, zinc oxide and mixtures thereof. The inventive cosmetic also contains cosmetic adjuvants, excipients, additional active substances and mixtures thereof.

CROSS REFERENCE TO RELATED APPLICATION

This application is a national stage of PCT/DE2002/003059 filed Aug. 16,2002.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

1. Field of the Invention

The invention relates to a cosmetic whose active constituents arespecified plant extracts and which has a very good skin-smoothingactivity.

2. Related Art of the Invention

A number of cosmetic products are known which have an anti-inflammatoryactivity on the skin. DE 199 33 857, for example, discloses a cosmeticcontaining extracts from plants of the Piperaceae family. It is furtherknown from a plurality of patents and other publications that vitaminsand antioxidants can be used to prevent signs of ageing and for skincare. It is also known that new epidermal cells will form due to the useof fruit acids (AHA acids; AHA effect), thus contributing to skinregeneration; however, this method is much disputed because of its sideeffects.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

The object of the invention is to provide a cosmetic without irritatingside effects which is suitable for smoothing porous or uneven skinhaving macroscopically visible elevations and depressions.

According to the invention, the aforesaid object is achieved by means ofa cosmetic with a plant extract base. Said cosmetic consists of

-   -   0.01 to 10% by weight of an extract from the leaves and stems of        Bambusa vulgaris (bamboo milk);    -   0.01 to 5% by weight of an extract from the roots of Nymphaea        alba;    -   0.01 to 5% by weight of a mixture of extracts from the roots of        Poterium officinale (also known as Sanguisorba officinalis) and        from the roots of Zingiber officinalis and from the bark of        Cinnamomum cassia;    -   0.01 to 5% by weight of an extract from the entire plant of        Nasturtium officinale R.Br.;    -   0.01 to 5% by weight of an extract from the flowers of Nelumbo        nucifera Gaertn.;    -   0.01 to 20% by weight of a powder selected from the group        consisting of talc, bamboo powder, kaolin, zinc oxide and        mixtures thereof; and    -   20 to 95% by weight of cosmetic adjuvants, excipients,        additional active substances and mixtures thereof, all        percentages being relative to the cosmetic's weight.

Bamboo milk is an extract obtained mainly from the leaves of Bambusavulgaris which also comprise parts of the stems. Said leaves aresubjected to an extraction with aqueous propylene glycol in order toobtain both water-soluble and fat-soluble constituents, particularlyvitamins, saponins, tannins of phenolic acids such as caffeic acid andgallic acid, constituents containing silicic acid, minerals, sterolssuch as sitosterol, stigmasterol and α-amyrin, and flavonoids. Theoverall mixture, which is provided in aqueous propylene glycol and canoptionally also be incorporated into the cosmetic composition in a dryform (e.g. spray-dried), has a skin-cleansing, draining, astringent andanti-inflammatory activity. Bamboo milk preferably makes up 0.1 to 5% byweight, particularly 1 to 5% by weight.

The extract from Nymphaea alba is an orange liquid whose pH value rangesbetween 4.0 and 6.0 and whose density is 1.035-1.055 at 20° C.Extraction is done using a mixture of water and propylene glycol at aratio ranging between 40:60 and 60:40. The root extract is soluble inwater and 60% ethanol. It contains alkaloids, flavonoids and ascorbicacid, thus having an antibacterial, tonifying and anti-inflammatoryactivity. This extract preferably makes up 0.1 to 5% by weight,particularly 1 to 5% by weight.

The mixture of extracts from the roots of Poterium officinale, from theroots of Zingiber officinalis and from the bark of Cinnamomum cassiacontains each of its individual constituents in an amount rangingbetween 20 and 40% by weight, relative to the dry weight of the rawmaterials used. The root extract from Poterium officinale is obtainedusing a mixture of water and butylene glycol, the extracts from Zingiberofficinalis and from the bark of Cinnamomum cassia are obtained usingwater. The extract mixture has mainly an antibacterial and an astringenteffect. The extract contains essential oils, saponosides, triterpenesand tannins. It is a translucent, red/orange solution in aqueousbutylene glycol, has a pH value ranging between 4.0 and 6.0 and adensity of 1.010-1.040, is mixable with water, propylene glycol and 50%ethanol and non-mixable with mineral oils. Said extract mixturepreferably makes up 0.1 to 5% by weight, particularly 1 to 5% by weight.

The extract from Nasturtium officinale, which is obtained from theentire plant using aqueous propylene glycol, has a chestnut/orangecolour, a density of 1.035-1.055 at 20° C. and is soluble in water andalcohol. It has an antibacterial and tonifying effect. Said effect canprobably be attributed to the fact that the extract contains traceelements, carotenoids, essential oils and ascorbic acid. Said extractpreferably makes up 0.1 to 5% by weight, particularly 1 to 5% by weight.

The extract from Nelumbo nucifera Gaertn. (or Nelumbium nelumbo Druce),which is obtained from the flowers using aqueous propylene glycol, has achestnut/orange colour, a density of 1.02-1.060 at 20° C. and is solublein water and alcohol. It contains an amino acid mixture, ascorbic acidand flavonoids. Said extract preferably makes up 0.1 to 5% by weight,particularly 1 to 5% by weight.

The overall mixture in the form of the inventive cosmetic shows anastringent, skin-clearing activity and, in particular, counteractsuneven spots in the skin such as small pimples, i.e. the skin becomesextraordinarily smooth in a very short time. It is particularlysurprising that such a broad effect is achieved so quickly. The skin isnot irritated in any way, the aforedescribed effect is achieved in avery skin-gentle manner and bacterial lipase is clearly inhibited by thecombination.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic can further contain 0.01 to 5% by weightof an extract from Epilobium angustifolium or a product containing saidextract, e.g. Seborilys® marketed by Greentech, St. Beauzire, France.Such a product inhibits 5α-reductase, thus influencing the enzymeactivity, and shows a certain anti-androgenic activity due tomacrocyclic tannins.

A preferred powder combination in the aforesaid composition consists of8-15% talc, 15-24% bamboo powder, 40-58% kaolin and 15-25% zinc oxide.Said kaolin can be kaolin according to WO96/17588 which has beenmodified with spherical TiO₂ or SiO₂ particles whose particle size is <5μm, the spherical particles making up 0.5 to 10% by weight of the kaolinmixture. In this way, the preparation will feel very soft on the skinand have an additional anti-inflammatory activity.

The bamboo powder used preferably consists of the powdered medulla ofBambusa arundinacea having a preferred medium particle size of approx. 5μm, approx. 60% of the particles ranging between 2 an 6 μm. Thisparticular bamboo species is native to some Indian mountain woods and isparticularly suitable for absorbing sebum and texturizing cosmeticproducts. A particularly preferred product is Greensil® marketed byGreentech, St. Beauzire, France. The inventive cosmetic can preferablycontain bamboo powder alone.

The powder preferably makes up 0.1 to 20% by weight of the mixture,particularly 5 to 20% by weight.

In one embodiment of the invention, a powder consisting of methylmethacrylate/ethylene glycol bismeth-acrylate copolymer can also beadded, which powder has an average particle size of approx. 8 μm and isprovided in the form of macroporous globules. The PMMA powder can makeup 0.5 to 10% by weight.

The powder contained in the composition absorbs sweat and at the sametime acts as a cover, i.e. it prevents oxygen from reaching the unevenspots in the skin so that the bacterial activity is not stimulated evenmore.

The inventive cosmetic can further contain cosmetic adjuvants andexcipients as they are commonly used in such preparations, e.g. water,preservatives, vitamins, colourants, pigments, free radical scavengers,thickeners, emollients, fragrances, alcohols, polyols such as glycerineand propylene glycol and butylene glycol, esters or ethers,electrolytes, polar and non-polar oils, polymers, copolymers,emulsifiers, waxes, gels, stabilizers, amines such as triethanolamine,or mixtures thereof.

Pigments, pigment mixtures or powders having a pigment-like effect,including those having a pearlescent effect, can include e.g. ironoxides, natural aluminosilicates such as ochre, titanium (di)oxide,mica, kaolin, clays containing manganese such as umber and red bole,calcium carbonate, talc, mica-titanium oxide, mica-titanium oxide-ironoxide, bismuth oxy-chloride, nylon globules, ceramic globules, expandedand non-expanded synthetic polymer powders, powdery natural organiccompounds such as ground solid algae, ground parts of plants,encapsulated and non-encapsulated cereal starches and mica-titaniumoxide-organic colourant.

Suitable esters or ethers include e.g. (INCI names): Di-pentaerythritylhexacaprilate/hexacaprate/tridecyl tri-mellitate/tridecylstearate/neopentyl glycol dicaprylate dicaprate, Propylene glycoldioctanoate 5, Propylene glycol di-caprylate 2,30 dicaprate, Tridecylstearate/neopentyl glycol di-caprylate dicaprate/tridecyl trimellitate,Neopentyl glycol di-octanoate, Isopropyl myristate, Diisopropyl dimerdilinoleate, Trimethylpropane triisostearate, Myristyl ether, Stearylether, Cetearyl octanoate, Butyl ether, Dicaprylyl ether, PPG1-PEG9Lauroyl glycol ether, PPG15 Stearyl ether, PPG14 Butyl ether, PEG20Stearate, PEG100 Stearate, Fomblin HC25.

Cosmetic oils used in small amounts, e.g. ranging below 5% by weight,can be vegetable oils such as calendula oil, jojoba oil, avocado oil,macadamia nut oil, castor oil, wheatgerm oil, grapeseed oil, kukui nutoil, thistle oil, evening primrose oil, safflower oil or a mixture ofseveral thereof. Mineral oils can also be used.

Suitable water- and/or oil-soluble UVA or UVB filters or both can beadded to the inventive compositions. Advantageous oil-soluble UVBfilters include derivatives of 4-aminobenzoic acid such as4-(dimethylamino)-benzoic acid-(2-ethylhexyl) ester; esters of cinnamicacid such as 4-methoxycinnamic acid(2-ethylhexyl) ester; benzophenonederivatives such as 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone; derivatives of3-benzylidene camphor such as 3-benzylidene camphor.

Preferred oil-soluble UV filters are Benzophenone-3, ButylMethoxybenzoylmethane, Octyl Methoxycinnamate, Octyl Salicylate,4-Methylbenzylidene Camphor, Homosalate and Octyl Dimethyl PABA.

Water-soluble UVB filters include e.g. sulphonic acid derivatives ofbenzophenone or of 3-benzylidene camphor, or salts such as the Na or Ksalt of 2-phenylbenzimidazol-5-sulphonic acid.

UVA filters include derivatives of dibenzoylmethane such as1-phenyl-4-(4′-isopropylphenyl)propane-1,3-dione.

Preferred sunscreens are inorganic pigments based on metal oxides suchas TiO₂, SiO₂, ZnO, Fe₂O₃, ZrO₂, MnO, Al₂O₃, mixtures of which can alsobe used.

Particularly preferred inorganic pigments are agglomerated substrates ofTiO₂ and/or ZnO, which substrates contain spherical and porous SiO₂particles whose particle size ranges between 0.05 and 1.5 μm and, inaddition to said SiO₂ particles, other inorganic, particle-shapedsubstances having a spherical structure, said spherical SiO₂ particlescombining with said other inorganic substances to form definedagglomerates whose particle size ranges between 0.06 and 5 μm (accordingto WO99/06012).

It is also preferred that a product obtained by ultrasonic decompositionof a yeast be contained as an additional active substance, whichdecomposition product contains superoxide dismutase (SOD), protease,vitamin B₂, vitamin B₆, vitamin B₁₂, vitamin D₂ and vitamin E.Preferably, said product contains at least 150 IU/ml SOD, protease andvitamins B and D, the ratio of SOD to protease, expressed ininternational units, ranging at least between 3:1 and 8:1.

It is particularly advantageous that said decomposition product, i.e. anenzyme/vitamin mixture, be obtained by means of an ultrasonicdecomposition process as described in DE 4241154C1 (U.S. Pat. No.5,629,185A is an English language document in the patent family of DE4241154C1).

The inventive cosmetic preparation can e.g. be used in suncreams, sungels, after-sun products, day creams, night creams, masks, body lotions,cleansing milk, make-up, lipsticks, body powder, eye cosmetics, hairmasks, hair conditioners, hair shampoos, shower gels, shower oils, bathoils. The aforesaid products are manufactured in a way known to thoseskilled in the art.

The invention will hereinafter be explained in more detail by means ofexamples. All quantities are in % by weight unless indicated otherwise.

EXAMPLE 1 Coloured Anti-Pimple Cream

Phase A Stearyl alcohol 2.5 Cetearyl Octanoate 4.3 Mineral oil 0.6Pigments 3.5 Phase B Water q.s. ad 100 Propylene Glycol 2.0 Phase CBamboo milk extract (dry) 5.0 Nymphaea alba extract 3.0 Mixture ofextracts from Poterium 5.0 officinale, Zingiber officinalis andCinnamomum cassia Extract from Nasturtium officinale R.Br. 0.01 Extractfrom Nelumbo nucifera Gaertn. 2.0 Powder combination: 10% talc, 20%bamboo 10.0 powder, 50% kaolin according to WO99/06012, 20% ZnODecomposition product according to 0.1 DE 4241152 obtained fromSaccharomyces cerevisiae Phase D Preservative 0.5

Phases A and B are prepared separately by mixing the respectiveingredients while stirring. Both phases are combined at 75° C.±5° C. andhomogenized for 20 min. Subsequently, the mixture is cooled down to 40°C.±2° C., phase C is added and homogenized. Finally, phase D is added.

EXAMPLE 2 Skin-Smoothing Compact Powder I

Kaolin according to WO99/06012 ad 100 Talc 5.0 Bamboo milk extract (dry)10.0 Nymphaea alba extract 5.0 Mixture of extracts from Poterium 5.0officinale, Zingiber officinalis and Cinnamomum cassia Extract fromNasturtium officinale R.Br. 5.0 Extract from Nelumbo nucifera Gaertn.2.0 Powder combination: 10% talc, 20% bamboo 20.0 powder, 50% kaolinaccording to WO99/06012, 20% ZnO Emulsion consisting of 93% water, 5%PEG100 30.0 Stearate and 2% Cetearyl Isononanoate

EXAMPLE 3 Skin-Smoothing Compact Powder II

Composed as in Example 1, except that, in addition, 2% of adecomposition product obtained from Saccharomyces cerevisiae accordingto DE 4241152 (U.S. Pat. No. 5,680,010A is an English language documentin the patent family of DE 4241152) is used.

The powders according to Examples 2 and 3 were produced by mixing allconstituents except the emulsion. In order to prepare the emulsion, thewater and the oil phase were heated separately up to approx. 70° C.,combined while stirring and cooled down to approx. 40° C. The highlyliquid emulsion was then sprayed onto the powder mixture while agitatingthe latter, mixed thoroughly and the mixture was finally pressed intocontainers suitable for sale.

EXAMPLE 4 Comparison

The cream according to Example 1 was made available to 12 test personsaged 18 to 55 years. The skin of these persons' faces and necks wasuneven with occasional pimples and large pores, and they had regularlyused other skin-cleansing cosmetics.

Said test persons were asked to apply the cream evenly and thinly ontotheir facial and neck skin in the mornings and evenings.

The changes were evaluated using a scale of 1 to 5:

-   1=no significant change in the skin's appearance-   2=small change, contraction of pores-   3=acceptable improvement of the skin's smoothness, contraction of    pores, pimples in part levelled to some extent-   4=clear improvement of the skin's smoothness, contraction of pores,    most pimples clearly reduced-   5=extraordinary improvement of the skin's smoothness, pimples    levelled almost completely, even skin surface

In addition, the participants completed a questionnaire asking aboutease of application and side effects, among other things. After 4 days,2 of the 12 test persons judged the change corresponded to “3”, 6 testpersons chose “4” and 4 test persons chose “5”. After 7 days, 1 testperson just the change corresponded to “3”, 7 test persons chose “4” and5 test persons chose “5”.

This result shows an unexpectedly rapid effect in most test persons andan excellent overall effect after 7 days, while at the same time alltest persons confirmed that application was easy and had no sideeffects.

Said result is even more surprising as individual constituents of thecosmetic, which had been tested earlier using several other testpersons, brought about a certain improvement of the skin's appearance,but only after a longer period of application lasting 10 to 30 days.

1. A skin-smoothing cosmetic comprising: (a) 0.01 to 10% by weight of an extract from leaves and stems of Bambusa vulgaris; (b) 0.01 to 5% by weight of an extract from roots of Nymphaea alba; (c) 0.01 to 5% by weight of a mixture of extracts from roots of Poterium officinale, from the roots of Zingiber officinalis and from bark of Cinnamomum cassia; (d) 0.01 to 5% by weight of an extract from an entire plant of Nasturtium officinale R.Br.; (e) 0.01 to 5% by weight of an extract from flowers of Nelumbo nucifera Gaertn.; (f) 0.01 to 20% by weight of a powder selected from the group consisting of talc, bamboo powder, kaolin, zinc oxide and mixtures thereof; and (g) 20 to 95% by weight of cosmetic adjuvants, excipients, additional active substances and mixtures thereof, all percentages being relative to the weight of the cosmetic.
 2. The skin-smoothing cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein said extracts (b) to (e) each make up 0.1 to 5% by weight, said extract (a) makes up 0.1 to 10% by weight, and said powder (f) makes up 5 to 20% by weight.
 3. The skin-smoothing cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein said cosmetic additionally contains 0.01 to 2% by weight of a product comprising superoxide dismutase (SOD), protease, vitamin B₂, vitamin B₆, vitamin B₁₂, vitamin D₂ and vitamin E.
 4. The skin-smoothing cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein said cosmetic additionally contains 0.01 to 5% by weight of an extract from Epilobium angustifolium or of a product containing said extract.
 5. The skin-smoothing cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein said powder (f) is a powder mixture consisting of 8-15% talc, 15-24% bamboo powder, 40-58% kaolin and 15-25% zinc oxide, relative to the weight of the powder mixture.
 6. The skin-smoothing cosmetic according to claim 5, wherein said bamboo powder consists of powdered medulla of Bambusa arundinacea having a medium particle size of 5 μm. 